The legendary American Alligator: Natural History and Captive Care. (REPTILIAN Magazine Germany release date winter 2011)
By Leo Spinner
To the sound of shattering glass rising up from the basement, I awaken from a deep sleep…A momentary silence and then the sound of crunching. This can only mean one thing, Mr. Nippy my two meter long American Alligator has broken free of his enclosure and is now consuming one of my turtles! It never fails, despite the effort I put into keeping him secure, my alligator’s efforts to free himself are always just a little greater! As Murphy’s Law implies, if it can go wrong, it will go wrong. This theory couldn’t be better applied to another species. The American alligator is notorious for his nocturnal mishaps, making it imperative to be sure you can properly house one of these primitive saurian, long before you consider purchasing one.
Structure & Geography & History:
The American alligator is an animal fully equipped for the destructive forces that lie within nature. Her head is not only a powerful food gathering device but a weapon often used in combat situations with other animals. Mostly bone, the head is covered with a very thin layer of rigid skin attached with silicon like connective tissue. This connective tissue sinks deep into the underlying pores which make up the structure of the skull and fuses the skin to the bone allowing much protection and little damage when attack ensues.
The American alligator is a crocodilian and one of only two species in the Alligator genre. Along with its smaller cousin the Chinese alligator, Alligator mississippiensis has a large, wide mouth with a crushing pallet and an average of 72 cone shaped teeth. These hollow structures are set down rather weekly in the bone and are lost frequently. Like a shark or snake, the Alligator has back up teeth that move upwards when one is lost.
The head and face are covered in minute receptors which detect electrical signals in the water and are also equipped with closeable ears and nostrils.
There are 40 rows of armored bands lying horizontally along the dorsum of the American alligator. These bands not only provide the animal with a protective barrier against potential predators, but it also allows for the diffusion or infusion of heat. Beneath each of these scaly rows lie’s free floating bones which are encompassed by arterioles helping the Alligator thermally, enabling the animal to have greater control of its own body temperature.
The Alligators armored bands are joined by a narrow thread of skin which enables great flexibility and overlapping of dermal plates while swimming or moving at relative speeds across land.
The limbs of the alligator are rather week and seem almost vestigial at times. Hands are equipped with five digits while the feet have only four. All four appendages have digits with only three nails, perhaps an evolutionary dismissal due to a lack of use.
Toes are slightly webbed and this acts as an aid when moving over soft mud or sand while at the waters edge. As an obvious mode of transportation, the limbs allow the alligator to raise his body well off of the ground when traveling on land at a slower pace and give the alligator much momentum when moving in short powerful bursts of up to ten miles per hour while pressed to the grounds surface.
Smaller alligators demonstrate signs of being bipedal. When excited, juveniles raise themselves up on the rear feet and attempt a short distance sprint; they look as if they are pedaling an invisible bicycle. Because of the long heavy body, babies are brought back to the ground quickly as they stumble, they again attempt to run on two feet, this repetitive motion cause the alligator to move erratically or in zig-zags. An alligators week limbs help while moving earth and occasionally scratching itches, but In the water the limbs are held well out of the way, against the sides of the alligators body while the tail and head propel and direct the alligator, respectfully.
The Alligators broad, flat and muscular tail is a powerful tool enabling the animal to move for great distances under water with little effort and acts as a formidable weapon while on land. Lasting a little longer physically than most Reptiles, the alligator owes its energy to an advanced incomplete four chambered heart. Not quite as well formed as a mammal’s heart, yet better designed for oxygen transfer than most other reptiles.
Not only structurally but geographically, the alligators differ from their cousins the Crocodiles, Caiman and Garhial. American and Chinese alligators are found the furthest of all crocodilians, from the equator. This is to say that alligators are found in places where dormancy may be a must and may also have to be done where ice may occur. Geographically, American alligators are found from extreme northern North Carolina, south to the Florida Keys, west to Texas and north to Arkansas.
Hunted almost to extinction primarily for the leather trade around the turn of the century, the American alligator was finally listed as endangered in 1967 and was placed on the endangered species list which later followed in 1973. It was later removed in 1987 as captive breeding programs and protective legislation helped their numbers return to reasonable levels. At the time of this writing, the American alligator is often considered an overly abundant species and there are annual government controlled, structured alligator hunts throughout much of their natural range.
Communication:
Communication is largely used in the social network of Alligators. Both visually and audibly, the American Alligator seems to have a lot to say. From booming roars and inaudible notes or infrasound, that vibrate the surrounding water, to slamming his head against the surface of the water and raising ones head and tail out of the water for others to see, the American Alligators communication skills are primeval and brilliant. These communication skills are sometimes observed in captive collections, most frequently of course in the larger outdoor breeding facilities or alligator farms. Some of these communication skills are also observed in home collections where there is at least one sexually mature male. Even without the presence of females or other males, it is not unusual to hear an indoor captive alligator respond to a loud truck or lawn mower that is outdoors. The response is typically in the form of a deep bellow often drawn out for some time. Hearing this gastric bellow makes one realize just how primitive these creatures really are and one can easily imagine an epic period of time before the presence of human life.
Captivity:
Obtaining specimens:
The captive American alligator can be easily obtained in America at the reptile trade shows or via online distributors. Babies are sold in large numbers and rather inexpensively making them affordable to any impulse buyer that happens to be drawn to there spectacular beauty. Adorned with neon yellow bands against a shiny black backdrop, the baby American alligator is hard to resist. These babies are typically available at about eight inches and are quite manageable at this petite size. What many people do not realize is that the baby alligator grows quite rapidly utilizing approximately 98% of what they eat towards growth. They produce little waste material and under the proper care, they can attain growth rates of about 12 inches a year for the first three to five years, ultimately reaching an average adult size of eight to fourteen feet. The largest alligator recorded having been killed at 19 feet and two inches (5.84 meters), around the turn of the 19th century. A large male can reach weights of up to 1000 pounds (453 kg) and may live 50 to 70 years in captivity.
It is imperative that the captive alligator is handled frequently when being kept as a pet. Frequent handling will assure a placid demeanor as the animal matures. It is of course always better to have an unmanageable pet that doesn’t bite as opposed to an unmanageable pet that does bite!
Most pet keepers are ill equipped to properly house an adult alligator but still continue to impulsively buy them, worrying about how to relocate them only when they become unmanageable a few years later. Most states have set regulations on keeping animals such as this and require permits for these potentially menacing pets.
Regardless of their poor pet status, people will still continue to keep them and as such, so I will try to help the pet owners needs as best as I can.
Food and feeding:
Although the alligator is easily tamed in captivity with frequent handling and routine, this reptile is still driven by instinct and a keeper must recognize when an otherwise tame individual can become a dangerous adversary.
Feeding time can be one of the greatest moments and can present genuine danger in the life of your career as an amateur alligator keeper.
This animal can be considered an eating machine from day one! Baby alligators will consume invertebrates, small fish, reptiles and even carrion in nature and this doesn’t change much as the alligator grows larger. They will consume or investigate with the intention of consumption anything that makes a splash in the water, regardless of size as long as it is made of meat. Young alligators grow rapidly and can grow as much a twelve inches a year for the first one to three years.
Regardless of how familiar a keeper becomes with his pet or the common assumption that his pet is familiar with him, feeding time is still feeding time. Once food is detected by an alligator, anything moving becomes potential prey, even the keeper that’s performing the feeding. This is likely to become an inherent problem most notably when the keeper is within closed, non-spacious quarters with said animal or confined during feeding with many specimens. Never feed an alligator that is in the water, from the water!
The American alligator has an average biting pressure of 1,500 pounds per square inch. It is very difficult to get out once you are in the mouth of a hungry alligator so be wise in your routine feeding regimen.
In nature whether it be snails or humans, alligators are opportunists and when opportunity knocks, well you know… Captive alligators can be kept on a wide variety of food items and should be fed a diverse selection. Whole animals should be used whenever possible. Rats, mice, guinea pigs, reptiles, birds, fish and a whole host of invertebrates should be fed to your American alligator whenever possible. Chicken drumsticks, bones included are a popular and easy choice that can be purchased from the supermarket. Whenever feeding larger prey to smaller alligators, things can become quite messy. When given large prey the alligator will make every attempt to turn it into something smaller and easier to swallow. This may involve lots of splashing and slamming the prey against any solid object or wall they can reach and they don’t clean up after themselves.
Lighting:
Equally as important as dietary variation is the use of full spectrum lighting. Whenever able, you should bring your Alligator outdoors into natural sunlight. When this is not possible however, artificial full spectrum lighting should be used and lights should be within twelve inches above the animals back and hung above the alligators basking area. Full spectrum lighting helps in the production and distribution of vitamins and calcium and is particularly important with smaller specimens. Full spectrum light is also essential to the psychological well being of your American Alligator. Animals that are without natural light are likely to become sick and or listless. They are also likely to become depressed and stop eating. Don’t slack when it comes to the care of something that depends on YOU specifically for its own life needs.
Environmental enrichment:
Captive American alligators seem to become bored rather easily. An alligator that becomes bored with his surroundings will likely get into mischief whenever the opportunity presents itself. Animals that are unsatisfied with their captive environments are animals that will spend much of their time seeking escape, harming cage mates or causing unwarranted mechanical destruction to anything they can wrap their mouths around! If there is any way for an American alligator to escape, they will. If other live animals are in view, then alligators will attempt to get at them. This includes using the face as a battering ram to break glass or screens in an attempt to reach the potential prey.
Preventing boredom can be achieved with environmental enrichment. Housing more than one alligator will help as long as quarters are large enough to allow a little territoriality. Be sure that alligators housed together are compatible size wise. A larger alligator will likely eat or greatly damage a smaller alligator and this is more likely when at least one of the alligators is a sexually mature male.
Boredom can also be curbed with daily handling. Alligators recognize routine and handling specimens outside of the typical feeding regimen can be beneficial to breaking up the monotony of every day existence. Handling will also increase the animal’s ability to remain calm when in the presence of people.
Captive environment:
Housing your alligator will be simple for the first year or so. A large vivarium with adequate land to water space and full spectrum lighting will suffice. Once your pet reaches a half meter however it will be apparent that the object of your interest will need greater space. This is best achieved through the actual construction of a room. A room sized enclosure will work best and be most practical as it needs to accommodate the alligator’s rapid growth. Construction can be simple, making walls four feet high using 2’x4’s and drywall to building something more elaborate including a door and ceiling, fully equipped with electrical for lights and heat. Materials may be purchased new or you can be creative and search for used sliders and other recycled materials to incorporate into your project. Whatever your budget allows for, be sure that your pet is secure, alligators can be very destructive to surroundings, other pets and even themselves. Your alligator enclosure must be equipped with a permanent source of water in which the alligator can completely submerge. This can be in the form of a removable basin or designed a little more creatively using concrete. As long as air temperatures are comfortable for the alligator, supplemental heating of the water should not be necessary. An air temperature of 82f during the day and 75f at night will work well. A warmer basking area won’t hurt. In the event that you decide to use a submersible heat source, keep in mind it must be sealed into aerated PVC or caged to prevent the alligator from breaking it.
Water filtration is a must! Although the alligator will not produce a great deal of solid waste, these animals urinate daily and uric-acid as well as ammoniates build up quickly. Food items leave debris and oils as well as bacteria behind and these variables only ad to the mess.
Proper handling & preventing accidents:
Accidents are always something to consider while working with any Reptile. However, when it comes to an alligator your window of opportunity is sometimes a little greater. Even a small alligator can inflict great damage if a keeper is bitten. Although a larger alligator has a tremendous crushing ability, the smaller an alligator is, the sharper its teeth are. Regardless of how familiar an alligator may seem to be to its keeper, it’s important to know that under specific circumstances, specimens still have a mind of their own! As mentioned previously, feeding time can be one of those trying periods between keeper and kept but often over looked is safe handling. Most of the time your alligator will give you nothing more than a brief struggle while being handled. Once he is in a comfortable position, you hardly know she is there. Occasionally however, she will give every bit of resistance not unlike that of being a wild animal. Handling specimens that have had time to roam freely outside or specimens that feel like they have escaped can be very trying. Under any circumstance, it’s important to remember never to reach for the front of an alligator, this may be misread as presentation of food and illicit a feeding response.
Juveniles and younger animals a meter or less can be quickly grasped at the base of the tail with one hand while the other hand is slid beneath the belly supporting the arms and neck between your thumb and fingers. This technique gives the handler complete control of the animal. Larger animals may present more of a challenge! A larger tame alligator is still likely to attempt escape when grasped. It’s important to be quick in your efforts to subdue your target. You can manipulate a larger alligator with your hand (keeping in mind that due to weight and strength, anything over two meters should not be attempted alone) from the outer end of the tail while swiftly sliding your other hand beneath the belly, sliding forward until the animals’ chest is resting on your fore-arm. If the animal continues struggling, greater control may be had by grasping the distal arm in your hand. Your other hand should be beneath the base of the tail now covering the alligators vent. In a swift motion while lifting with your legs, the alligator should be raised from the ground. The animals head should be up and the tail should be down. The alligators back should be against your chest and head facing forward. In the event that the alligator is thrashing, it can usually be immobilized by bracing the tail between your legs until she relaxes. A smaller alligator can sometimes be immobilized by raising the head higher and slightly backwards. Be extremely careful while handling large alligators. It’s not unusual for large animals while struggling to throw their head backwards in an attempt to escape. I was struck on the nose with some degree of force by the top of a two meter alligators head while performing a live animal presentation. It was akin to being struck in the face with a baseball! I saw stars briefly and almost passed out. Fortunately I was able to maintain my grip and my integrity and was no worse for ware. You should be so lucky!
Please keep in mind that my above noted recommendations are for captive, handle able alligators. I cannot recommend in good faith attempting to capture or handle large American alligators in nature. Their behavior is different in nature and they can be less predictable. The handling of wild adult American alligators should only be attempted by professional wranglers.
Disease:
Although alligators tend to be cold tolerant, hardy North American favorites, they should still be given every ounce of respect when it comes to their health and upkeep. These animals are very resistant to disease in nature and in captivity, but problems do occasionally manifest themselves when conditions are not great.
Providing your alligator with correct diet, temperatures and fresh water are the basics for healthy living. Resist using wild caught food as this can sometimes be a vector for internal parasites. Pay attention to your animals’ behavior, alligators sometimes develop bacterial infections that are only realized when the animals’ equilibrium is off balance. Scratching at the ear or nodding the head from side to side may be a good indicator as well.
Be sure your alligator has access to fresh water daily, this enables the animals system to flush out toxins and uric acid the latter of which can become solidified and create urinary blockage. Under extremely neglectful conditions, bone disorders and respiratory infections may manifest themselves. Always use full spectrum lighting and resist handling your animal while you are sick.
It has been suggested that providing stones for your alligator to swallow as is done in nature, may help dramatically in the break down of solid materials i.e., bones, hair, teeth and feathers thus preventing possible penetration damage to the intestinal tract wall and potential blockages. The author always provides gravel or small stones depending on the size of the specimen. This aggregate also aids as an aid for proper buoyancy.
Breeding:
Breeding is rarely if ever done in small captive collections but is more likely to be achieved when there are many animals farmed within their geographical range in a natural outdoor setting. In nature, Alligator mississippiensis begin the process of reproduction in March and April after a couple of months of notable, winter temperature drops. Males begin challenging other males and presenting elaborate visual displays and gestures in an attempt to attain dominance and secure receptive females. Their loud bellowing calls can be heard from miles away and can be an amazing event to witness up close! Copulation occurs under water with the larger male approaching her from above. Recent studies have suggested American alligators may be somewhat monogamous, staying with mates often for many years. With the onset of oviposition in May, the female begins the task of creating a large mound like nest of decomposing vegetation, earth and debris in which she will ultimately lay her eggs. The decomposing vegetation greatly helps the nest maintain the heat and humidity which is essential for the proper development of viable eggs. Female American Alligators seem to go into a hypnotic trance during egg deposition, much like the sea turtle making her temporarily unaware of her immediate surroundings. After laying 20 to 50 eggs within, she will remain close to this nest protecting it from predators until the time her babies are ready to hatch.
The gender of baby alligators as well as many other reptiles can be determined by the temperatures at which they develop within the nest, warmer temperatures producing males and cooler temps producing females. As the eggs begin to hatch late in the summer, the mother alligator is called with high pitched barks from within the nest. She proceeds to dig up the nest and remove her offspring, carrying them to the water in her mouth where she will spend the next one to three years watching over them.
Attacks on humans:
Although attacks on humans are relatively uncommon, they do occur none the less. It has been suggested that attacks on humans are simply the result of mistaken identity. It is the human coping ability which makes us think this way. Whether it is a shark, alligator or lion, to think that we are alone at the top of the food chain is absurd. Most large carnivorous animals including reptiles are opportunistic feeders. It is an animal’s natural instinct to survive, to take down and consume something smaller, slower and weaker is natural behavior for many species.
American alligators are nocturnal predators responding to movement and always taking advantage of an easy meal. Most attacks on humans occur late in the day or after dark when these primitive creatures are most active and typically occur when people are snooping around the waters edge or swimming.
Alligators do quickly learn to accept routine in captivity and their remarkable ability to be tamed makes them a favorite among the giant reptile pets. Don’t be fooled by this animal, he’ll just as well eat you as eagerly as if the situation would allow you to pet his head….
An INCREDIBLE Hulk! The Colorado River Toad A Natural History and Captive Care (DRACO magazine Germany September 2009)
By Leo Spinner
> I sit alone in my loft working on my articles, several hours of
> achievement and counting. There's an overwhelming feeling falling
> over me. I can't help but feel that I'm being watched...Still, I go
> along typing away on my PC., trying desperately to meet the deadlines
> that have been laid before me. Its been a long day and an even longer
> night...Its late, 2:00 a.m...It's a creepy sensation that's upon me.
> Me, a grown man! What is this feeling?! Slowly and nervously I turn
> around to find the source of my uneasiness and I see it...Two, large
> green muscular masses...Incredible, hulk like organisms covered in
> grotesque bumps with silvery, reddish colored eyes, staring straight
> through me...Looking directly into my face, a stare that screams
> cruel intentions! They watch me from my bureau...
> It is a large pair of Colorado River Toads and they are not happy!
> These are animals with an unrelenting appetite for flesh in any shape
> or form! As long as it's moving, they want to eat it!
> They have a control over me, a control that sends me to the mouse
> rack once again, in search of hoppers to satisfy their insatiable
> appetite...A satisfaction that will allow me the piece of mind that
> will enable me to finish my work in peace!
> Thirty five hundred miles away in Arizona, it's 11:00 p.m., and Clark
> is on his way home from work. The desert has an eerie feel to it
> tonight. It's been raining steady, the monsoons have begun.
> Surprisingly, seemingly out of nowhere the road is covered in large
> organic obstacles. Swarming, they're everywhere, there's no avoiding
> them! Then suddenly he sees it in his headlights, one of these
> abominations, turned, facing his truck...Staring him down! He swerves
> off of the road in an effort to avoid contact...Likely in fear of
> retaliation!
> Clark catches his breath and waits for the masses to recede...It's
> that time of year again. The Colorado River Toads are ready to breed..
> .And they all seem to feel the urge at once!
> Range & Description
> Ranging from extreme se. California to extreme sw. New Mexico and
> south into Mexico (Behler and King 1979) and at a staggering 3 - 7
> inches (7.7 - 17.9 cm) The Colorado River Toad Bufo alverius is North
> Americas largest native species of toad. Relatively smooth skinned
> almost frog like and with few randomly placed, raised bump like
> glands, primarily on the arms and legs, Bufo alvarius does not fit
> the general appearance of the other typical Bufo genera toads.
> This toad is usually shades of olive green, sometimes brown and
> frequently freckled with small orange or brownish spots on the dorsum.
>
> There are large elongate paratoid glands which lie beside and come
> into contact with the obvious cranial crests. This toad species has a
> white bump that marks the corner of each side of its mouth. Its belly
> color is soft white.
> It is not so much a vocal species of toad, its call is rather subdued
> and sounds much like a short hoot, lasting about a second.
> In captivity this species shuffles around frequently and these sounds
> of activity are often mistaken for snuffling vocalizations.
> Behavior
> A nocturnal desert species, The Colorado River Toad or Sonora Desert
> Toad as it is sometimes referred, prefers habitat around permanent
> sources of water, whether it be mitigated waterways or natural. These
> toads may also occupy space in arid or semi-arid grasslands and
> woodland habitat.
> During the heat of the day, Bufo alvarius spends its days hidden,
> buried deep within the desert sand usually against a shaded hillside
> or beneath rocks or shrubs. They sometimes muscle out the heat of the
> day within crevices, deeply hidden beneath the rocks. Often they
> retreat to rodent or Desert Tortoise burrows and mine shafts.
> Wherever locations damp and cool may prevail over the scorching
> sunlight. As the heat of the day recedes, hunger forces these goblin
> like creatures from beneath the earth in an effort to curb their
> never ending hunger.
> These toads have a voracious appetite and grow rapidly! They will try
> to over power organisms considerably larger than themselves including
> their own species. They will eat venomous invertebrates as well as
> small venomous snakes. A primary food source seems to be various
> species of hard shelled beetles including Darkling Beetles of the
> family Tenebrionidae.
> In my experience with all wild caught individuals of this species,
> defecation always produces sometimes exlusively, shells of the Death
> Feigning Beetles including the powder blue Cryptoglossa verrucosus
> and shells from various species of Darkling Beetles Embaphion ssp.,
> with or without ridged elytra. It has been suggested that the acrid
> liquid dispelled by species of Darkling Beetle may actually
> contribute to the Colorado River Toads own toxicity.
> Breeding season for the Colorado River Toad is generally May through
> July but in many areas it is highly dependant on the onset of the
> rainy season or monsoons. Like most species of Bufo toads, the Bufo
> alvarius males approach receptive females while in the water often
> while still on land! Many individuals are actually killed while
> crossing highways to reach breeding pools. The smaller male climbs
> upon her back, firmly embracing her beneath the arm pits in a
> breeding hold known as amplexus. Female Bufo alvarius deposit several
> thousand eggs in long gelatinous strands, while the male fertilizes
> them externally.
> Days later, the eggs hatch into pollywogs and rapidly develop into
> miniature versions of the adults. Developed toadlet's are often found
> in large numbers with Red Spotted Toads Bufo punctatus and a few
> species of Spadefoots Scaphiopus ssp.
> Sexual maturity may be reached under favorable conditions within one
> season.
> Toxins
> The Colorado River Toad is very well protected with a powerful skin
> secretion that may prove fatal to would be predators. Toxic skin
> secretions of Bufo alvarius contain 5-MeO-DMT (5-methoxy-dimethyltrypta
> mine) which is an powerful psychedelic tryptamine. These skin
> secretions also contain Bufotenin, a tryptomine that is related to
> the neurotransmitter serotonin and is similar in chemical structure
> to the hallucinogenic psilocin, a psychedelic mushroom alkaloid.
> Although these toxins are an effective means of self defense, they
> have found another use in the world of humans. People have been known
> to exploit these toxins which when used carefully can produce a
> euphoria and respectable hallucinogenic ride that may last as long as
> 10 to 15 minutes during the peak of intoxication. Some individuals
> liken it to an out of body experience.
> It has been suggested that the toxins are squeezed from the large
> paratoid glands located on the upper back of the toad.
> The toxins are squeezed onto glass and allowed to dry into a
> consistency not unlike that of dried rubber cement. It is then rolled
> into a ball and is typically smoked. People have also been known to
> ingest the dried skins of Colorado River Toads to attain the same
> effects.
> Dried Bufotoxins have been used as an Entheogen in some South
> American cultures in an effort to gain religious enlightenment. This
> effort has been adopted in at least one religious cult/church in the
> American southwest as well.
> Keep in mind, Bufo toxins also contain cardiac glycosides. Ingestion
> of Bufo toad poison and eggs has resulted in several reported cases
> of poisoning and some of which have resulted in death.
> Although it is not unlawful in America to possess this species of
> toad it is unlawful in some areas to possess the dried toxin and
> there has been at least one arrest over such possession. Bufotenine
> is regulated as a Schedule 1 drug by the US drug enforcement agency.
> Captive Care
> As toads go, Colorado River Toads are relatively easy to care for,
> much in the same way as you would care for smaller species of bufo
> only on a larger scale. Where as a twenty gallon long tank my suffice
> for several Fowler's toads Bufo w. Fowleri, Bufo alvarius grows
> considerably larger much quicker and are notably more active, thus
> requiring a greater amount of space. A fifty to seventy five gallon
> glass terrarium should be fine for two pairs of adults. Inadequate
> space will often result in damaged toads. When space is not adequate
> toads will often bump their faces against the glass in an effort to
> move about and avoid one another. Much damage can be done by this
> activity.
> Like other species of toads that I have kept in captivity, I use
> Ground Pine Bark Mulch. This mildly acidic mulch prevents the growth
> of harmful bacteria and demotes the growth of fungus.
> I place several inches of mulch down as a substrate, saturating it
> with fresh water. Urination typically occurs first, then the toads
> absorb moisture through the soft tissue of their bellies and when the
> water is pooled, through cloacal absorption.
> The bark mulch is allowed to dry out naturally and when the surface
> has become completely dry (the lower mulch should still be damp) the
> toads are removed to soak in fresh water and are looked over for
> signs of distress.
> Soiled bark mulch can be recycled to the garden, but should not be
> placed back in the tank as it is now saturated with ammonia's and dry
> fecal material.
> Although Bufo alvarius is a desert species, it is imperative that
> these animals are not allowed extreme temperatures or able to reach
> dehydration. Highs of 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit work best for this
> species.
> You may use an full spectrum lamp, this may be psychologically
> beneficial to this species. It is extremely important to provide a
> hide box for this species as well. They will use it and often due to
> the weight of these toads, the substrate becomes packed down and it
> makes for difficulty in burrowing, thus the hide box is essential.
> These toads will eat live or pre-killed small mice or hoppers. Pre-
> killed hoppers should be offered by means of forceps and moved
> slightly in front of the hide box opening. The toads will eat them
> from out of the darkness and security of the hide box.
> Live insects such as crickets and beetles should be offered as a
> primary food source. Be sure to remove uneaten crickets daily as they
> may turn the aggressor.
> Captive breeding
> Captive breeding is achieved much like that of other North American
> species of bufo. A gradual cooling down period in the late fall such
> as the end of October will bring these animals into a winter rest.
> temperatures of 50 degrees Fahrenheit will suffice and a hibernation
> of four months is recommended. Temperatures should gradually be
> brought back up in early March and food offered once again. After a
> couple of months animals may be stimulated to breed by heavy misting
> their enclosure several times a day for a duration of two to three
> weeks.
> After this time, your toads should be moved into a rain chamber. This
> chamber can be made rather simply using two medium sized plastic
> totes, two small recirculating pumps and two small submersible
> filters.
> Each of the totes are filled with four or five inches of fresh water.
> Each tote will contain a recirculating pump. Remember, if you use a
> stronger pump, be sure to protect your toad's and their egg's from
> the pump impellers vacuum! Create a small cage around the pump. This
> should also be applied for a stronger filter as well.
> The tote which will house the captive toad's should have a fine mesh
> screened cover over it. The water from the other tote will cascade
> across this mesh cover mimicking the sound and activity of rain,
> however crudely it may be. Once the rain chamber is initiated, it
> should be allowed to run continuously. Pay close attention that the
> water is not being lost somewhere in the design of the chamber.
> Five or six inches of water will be sufficient for your toads to be
> successful in breeding. Be sure to include a smooth stone or other
> object that will enable toads to hold onto if they begin to tire.
> Within a few days you should hear your toads call and amplexus will
> begin. Eggs will follow within the following days as will the
> Pollywogs, days from there.
> Upon arrival of the eggs, adult toads should be removed and soiled
> water replaced with fresh water Pollywogs can be kept successfully on
> Algae and flaked fish food. It is important to remove any neaten food
> in a timely fashion.
> Be sure developing toads are kept clean with daily water changes.
> In closing
> This is a rewarding species to work with. Individuals are very aware
> and seem almost to recognize their keepers. They are eating machines
> and individuals should be monitored closely as they tend to become
> very fat, very quickly. Reducing the amount of food per feeding will
> help.
> Be sure to know your local laws regarding this species. You may be
> able to avoid some serious persecution by the law with just a simple
> phone call. Do the right thing and be responsible.
> All of my best.
Turn to stone!
The Plumed Basilisk: Turn to stone! Natural History and Captive Care. (REPTILES magazine English release date October 2010) By Leo Spinner
With piercing, neon yellow eyes, against a canvas of brilliant emerald green, the Plumed basilisk is both feared and revered as one of the tropical rain forests classic natural enigmas. With such brilliance and timeless beauty, it’s no wonder this creature stays the power of legend like the fictitious reptilian beast from which it was named, believed by some to turn one to stone with just a passing gaze! Hailed with great respect which carries to this day, some of the native Indians believe the modern day Basilisk to possess fantastic powers. Description: First described by Cope in 1876, the Plumed basilisk or Basiliscus plumifrons (derived from the Greek word Basiliskos or “little king” in reference to their crown like head adornment), is undeniably the most beautiful and structurally dramatic of the four species recognized in the genus. Their colors are intense shades of electric green, typically patterned with white, yellow or bluish scattered specks and may even sometimes be found in uniform shades of yellowish green or powder blue, with little or no pattern at all.
Sexual dimorphism applies to this species and the male Basiliscus plumifrons, addressed with a pair of high cranial crests and vertebral sails that run the length of the body and again the tail is without question, dressed to impress! Soft in appearance, the Basilisks vertebral crests are actually ridged to the touch affording some degree of protection against predators and likely serve to diffuse heat for thermal regulation.
The female much less impressive in form, has a smaller sometimes completely absent cranial crest and a modest vertebral ridge made up of small polished rectangular scales. The female is more likely to carry over the banded pattern of juveniles, into adult hood than the male.
A moderately sized lizard, the Plumed basilisk reaches an adult size of 24 to 30 inches, two thirds of which belongs to the tail.
Both male and female plumed basilisks are agile and equipped with long digits ending in razor sharp nails which allow for rapid ascent into the trees. The rear toes are margined with small, downward facing scales which increase the surface area of the toe against the water surface enabling the basilisk to make a bipedal escape from potential aggressors. Although this ability to run across the surface of water is most notable with basilisks, it has also been noted in species of convergent evolution such as the old world Sailfin lizards of the genera Hydrosaurus. Because of this ability, the basilisk is sometimes referred to in its native haunts as Lagarto de jesus cristo or Jesus Christ lizard.Geography: As a genera, the Basilisks are found in central America from southern Mexico to northern, south America. Basiliscus plumifrons specifically, from Guatemala to Costa Rica. It is commonly found along large water ways and inlets surrounded by lush, dense forest and it is here that it’s numbers are greatest. Although it may be found in tree tops as high as 50 feet, it is typically a creature of exposed lower canopy within close proximity of the water in which they may hunt or use to escape approaching danger. *Captive Care: Acquisitions: A virtual anomaly in the pet trade, the Plumed basilisk is not as readily available as it once was in the past. In my youth, it was not an uncommon site through the seventies and eighties to encounter the occasional imported specimens, parasite ridden and emaciated, sporting a torn up face from rubbing against abrasive surfaces in an endless effort at escape.
Thanks largely in part to educational journals such as “Reptiles,” the wide spread promotion of captive breeding in common and obscure species such as this, has done wonders for the basilisk and now most if not all specimens encountered in the industry are the immaculate products of dedicated hobbyists.
Though it can be found through private breeders with some effort, there is still no huge demand for this species. This may be due in part to the once accurately carried stigma, that they are difficult and usually do not thrive.
Today’s finest individuals will have brilliant wide open eyes, smooth skin integrity and a straight uniform tail. Check specimens for injuries to the toes and mouth area. Keep in mind that juveniles should be skittish and are not as brightly colored as adults, this will come later.cage requirements: Plumed basilisks require a lot of room to roam. A large enclosure can be easily constructed out of two by fours and masonry screen and at best should be the general proportions of a walk in closet, approximately seven feet high by five feet wide and four feet deep. This type of enclosure should be designed with caster wheels on the bottom for easy movement. For those keepers with less room or perhaps less building skill, an old bureau can be redesigned to house your captives. Knock out the drawer supports and replace with Screen. Remove the top of the bureau and replace with hinges for easy access. Cutting out the center of the bureau top and replacing it with screen will allow you even better air circulation and somewhere to place your overhead lighting.
décor: When the time comes to address environmental design, the type of cage décor should be chosen with consideration to ease of maintenance, durability, animal well being and your own visual appeal. It is imperative that environmental decorations are secure, allowing for inhabitants to free themselves easily when digging beneath objects or while searching for food and they should be able to climb safely without falling and risking possible injury. The use of artificial plants instead of live plants is recommended because live plants are easily damaged and will require their own special care. Artificial foliage should be used against a stronger, more secure base network of branches. As a substrate, I have always used a thick layer of ground, pine bark mulch This material allows for water retention and its acid content inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria, mold and fungus. This type of substrate will also encourage females to dig, and give gravid females a place to deposit eggs. Food/water, Lighting and heating: Lighting, heat, food and moisture are essential variables that will need to be addressed and must not be neglected.
Lighting: True to the form of all naturally arboreal lizards, the basilisk is fueled by the sun and thrives only within its presence. Natural light provides the ability to produce and process precious vitamins and helps the Basilisk to maintain an overall proper physical and psychological bio rhythm. Because it is not always possible to provide natural sunlight to our captives, it is necessary to enable it in an artificial form. Shop lights can be found in most hardware or department stores and are rather inexpensive. They are sometimes already equipped with florescent bulbs which should be replaced instead with full spectrum bulbs. An additional outdoor enclosure is highly recommended with this species whenever possible to afford it the maximum benefits of natural sunlight. Keep in mind the more lighting you have, the more content your basilisks will be.Heating: It’s a common misconception that animals from central and south American tropical forests must be kept within the range of extreme temperature and humidity while in captivity. On the contrary, I have found that a relative humidity of 50 to 70% along with temperatures within a range of 72 to 85f., will suffice when adjusting the temperatures seasonally.
I would like to suggest that greater humidity and heat will likely increase the probability of respiratory problems and possible skin disorders unless the caging is designed for air circulation and subjected to natural sunlight to prevent mold, fungus and or bacteria.
When trying to heat large open enclosures, it is sometimes best to consider heating the entire room. This effort is not usually difficult to obtain in the warmer months when rooms can be heated via sunlit windows.
Floodlights can be used to obtain comfortable basking temps collectively in winter months, when an cooler ambient temp would more likely under natural conditions anyway. Water: Fresh drinking water should be readily available to this species at all times, a keeper would do best to keep the pool small and easily removable from the captive environment. Although the Basilisk is fond of water and can sometimes be found resting fully submerged in larger containers, this animal will defecate almost daily in its water basin making cage maintenance rather challenging. In nature defection in water helps to prevent feces from drying beneath the vent and tail and may make the basilisk less easy to detect by predators. A strong daily misting of the captive environment will not only increase the humidity and ad a sense of environmental enrichment but allow the basilisk an opportunity to drink from droplets which have settled on artificial foliage.
For keepers with more time and creativity, creating a display vivarium with a large decorative pool of water and functioning filtration, will be well worth the extra effort. Food: The Basilisk is an omnivorous species which is greatly attracted to motion and will feed daily. It is fond of crispy invertebrates such as mantises, crickets and beetles as well as small vertebrates such as snakes, fish and other lizards. The sweet smell of fruit is often appealing to this species and should be offered along with occasional fresh greens such as collards or dandelions. It is strongly recommended that this species be given a wide variety of food items and whole vertebrate animals are a must.Captive breeding:
I have found this species of lizard to be one of the easiest to breed in captivity. In nature the plumed Basilisk may lay several clutches of eggs in a season, each clutch containing as many as 15 to 20 oval shaped eggs. In captivity, the frequency of egg laying may vary dramatically and may correspond to the age of the female.
In my experience, keeping a colony of several Basilisks proved to be key in stimulating breeding activity. Although males will generally get along with one another within a large enclosure for most of the year, there may be some signs of aggression during breeding season which are greater than just the typical head bobbing gestures. Because of this I would recommend one male to several females if of course your goal is propagation. If you have no intention of breeding this species at all, do not keep males and females together.
Proper temperatures, food and lighting as suggested above, seem to be all the basilisk needs to stimulate breeding activity. If a female is sexually mature, an adult male will respond to her pheromones with an attempt (usually with little resistance) to mount her, grasping her in his powerful jaws just behind the neck. Mating occurs when the male aligns his vent with hers, the female making this task easier by lifting her leg above her back. Copulation may take several minutes or over an hour and there is little that can be done to disturb them while in this position.
After 30 to 50 days, the female will begin digging nesting burrows and may take up to several days before she finds a suitable location to deposit her eggs. It is preferable to have a substrate several inches deep such as ground pine mulch as opposed to a nesting box. Younger females and females which have not found a suitable nesting site may become egg bound and die, so please take every responsible measure during breeding.
When a suitable burrow is excavated, the female plumed basilisk will enter the burrow and turn around with her head exposed just beyond the burrow entrance. She may lie there for some time while depositing her 7 to 20 spherical eggs and she should not be disturbed. Once the eggs have been deposited, she will cover the burrow with substrate and leave them. Incubation and Hatchlings: It is important for you to collect the eggs as soon as possible and move them to a pre heated incubator to allow for proper development temperatures and to prevent other females from disturbing them while finding suitable nest sites for themselves.
While moving freshly laid eggs, it is important not to squeeze, turn or drop them, this actually takes a bit of skill! Place them in the incubator as you recovered them from the nesting burrow. Setting them gently into dampened, fine vermiculite. Other incubation medium such as mulch or peat moss has been used with success.
Plumed basilisk eggs can be incubated at temperatures of 84 -88f., much like colubrid eggs and should hatch after 60 to 90 days. The juvenile basilisks will begin to pip, creating a thin slice in the shell which will allow their freedom. In nature the 37mm rather drab, olive colored juveniles will immediately ascend into the foliage where they will remain hidden, feeding on insects and other small animals for the several months they will need to reach maturity.
In captivity, juvenile Basilisks should be kept in a nursery away from predacious adults. They should be lightly misted several times daily and their enclosure should have open air circulation as recommended for the adults. If natural sunlight isn’t available, full spectrum lighting should be present and abundant. The juvenile basilisks should be fed a steady diet of gut loaded insects such as size appropriate crickets and flightless fruit flies. These feeder insects should be dusted with a calcium d3 powder twice a week.
For reasons unknown, captive born baby basilisks sometimes have a dying off. All of the juveniles in some of my clutches died within days of one another. All of their needs seem to have been met but variables such as temperature fluctuations by slight, unintentional drafts may have proven a factor. Keepers should adhere strictly to his or her routine and be diligent about keeping detailed husbandry records. Handling the hatchlings as little as possible for the first couple of months will prove to be a positive factor.A word about breeding: Be responsible, it is best to have buyers waiting before you produce offspring of this species. The steady production of eggs plays a heavy biological and psychological toll on females of any age and constant breeding should be avoided. Overly amorous males can do much damage to breeding females, rotate your stock to avoid unnecessary and avoidable problems.A word of caution: Although the plumed Basilisk is usually very tame in captivity, these animals are equipped with extremely powerful jaws and razor sharp nails. Exercise caution when handling even tame specimens. If bitten, you are in for a world of hurt and it is virtually impossible to free yourself from the jaws of an adult basilisk without severely damaging the specimen. If you are bitten, do not struggle! You will find that the basilisk still has the capacity to bite even harder! A few drops of vinegar in the animals mouth should prove useful when freeing your finger.
The Eastern Hognose Snake: Unleashed in the East! (REPTILIAN magazine release date Feb 2010) Published in English, German, Spanish and Italian.
The Spotted Turtle: A Speckled Jester! The Natural History and Captive Care. (TERRARIA magazine German release date Jul/Aug 2010)
The Spotted Salamander: Seeing Spot's! The Natural History and Captive Care. (REPTILES magazine English release date May 2011)
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